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ADFD Term 4 PMT Unit 5 Indian Wear ( Saree blouse & Salwar Kameez )

 SAREE BLOUSE

 This blouse is commonly used with a saree. Four darts are taken around the apex of bust, to get a nice fit. For this the distance from the neck point 19 to the apex of bust can be measured and applied .Opening may be kept at the front or back. As the front width is kept more than the back, the side seam comes exactly midway of the armpit.

Measurement:

  1. Chest 87 cm (34”).
  2. Waist 68 cm (27”).
  3. Full length 33 cm (13”).
  4. Shoulder 16.5 cm (6½”)
  5. Sleeve with shoulder 40 cm (16”)
  6. Sleeve round 24 cm (9’/2”)

 

INSTRUCTIONS

Back:

Square lines from 0, fold at 2-0.

1-0 = one-eighth chest plus 5 cm (2”).

2-0 = full length plus 1.5 cm (½”)

Square out from 1 and 2.

3-0 = one-eighth chest or to taste.

4-0 = one-twelfth chest or to taste.

Shape neck 4-3.

5-0 = shoulder plus 1 cm (¼”). Square down from 5 to 6.

7-5 = 1.5 cm (1/2”). Join 3-7.

8-1 = one-fourth chest. Shape scye 7-8.

Square down from 8 to 9.

10-9 =2 cm (3/4 “)Join 8-10.

11-12 = 1/12 chest plus 1.5 cm (1/2”)

Square up from 11 to 12.

12 is 4 cm (1½”) below the chest line 1-8.

Take 2 cm (¾”) dart at 11-12.

 

Front:

Draw line 13-14-15 and produce the lines of back as shown.

16-14 = one-fourth chest plus 4 cm (1½”).

Square down from 16 to 17.

18-13 = 1.5 cm (½”).

Shape 18-14 as shown.

19-18 = same as 3 to 0 of back.

20-18 = one-eighth chest or to taste. Shape neck 20-19.

For back opening, if required take point 20 on line 13-14.

21-18 = same as 5 to 0 of back.

Square down from 21 to 22.

23-21 = 1.5 cm (½”). Join 19-23.

24-22 = nearly 2.5 cm (1”).

Shape scye 23-24-16.

25-17 and 26-15=4 cm (1½”) each. Join 26-25.

 

Darts:

27-14 = one-twelfth chest plus 2 cm (¾”).

28-29 is squared down from 27.

28-27 = one-eighth chest less

4 cm (1½”) or bust length from shoulder at 19 plus 1.5 cm (½”).

Take 4 cm (1½”) dart at 29. For more prominent bust, suppress more cloth in this dart.

30-14 = same as 28 to 27.

Take 1.5 to 2 cm (½ to ¾”) dart at 30. 31-16 = one-eighth chest or 1.5 cm (½”) more.

32-31 = 1.5 cm (½”).

33-31 = 1.5 cm (½”) from 31 and 1 cm (¼”) inside line 16-17.

Take dart 33-28-32 as shown.

34-26 = one-fourth waist plus 1.5 cm (½”) + dart width at 29. Join 33-34.

If required, take a dart at 24.

Keep 2 to 2.5 cm (¾ to 1”) inlays outside 8-10 and 16-34.

 

Plain sleeve

As per fashion picture, this plain and simple sleeve is prepared without fullness, gathers or pleats at the top (i.e. shoulder) as well as bottom, which is finished with inside turning.

INSTRUCTIONS

Square lines from 0, fold at 2-0

1-0 one-eighth chest plus

6.5 cm (2½”)

2-0 = sleeve length plus 1 cm (¼”).

3-2 = same as 1 to 0. Join 3-1.

4-1 = one-eighth chest.

5-0=2.5 cm (1”). Join 4-5.

6 is midway 4 to 5.

7-6 2 cm (¾”)

Shape back-side 4-7-5-0 as shown

Square up from 4 to 8.

8-4 = 5 cm (2”) for ladies and

4 cm (1½”) for girls garments.

Join 8-5. Taking 1 cm (¼”) above point 4,

Shape front-side 4-8- 9-0 as shown.

10-2 = half sleeve round plus

1.5 cm (½”).

Join and shape 4-10.

Keep 3 cm (1¼”) inturns at 10-2.

Keep 2 cm (¾”) inlays at 10-4.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

PUNJABI KAMEEZ 

This ladies kameez  is used along with Salwar, Chudidar or even Harem pants. The neckline can be shaped according to fashion. When the chest is more than 80 cm (32), a slit (i.e., opening) nearly one-fourth chest long, should be made in the left side seam, at the waist, with an arrangement of hooks and eyes. This slit is not required when the opening is up to 8 to 10 cm (3 to 4″)

 Measurements

  1. Chest 80 cm (32”).
  2. Waist 63 cm (25”).
  3. Seat 86 cm (34”).
  4. Full length 92 cm (36”).
  5. Waist length 36 cm (14½”).
  6. Shoulder 16.5 cm (6½”).
  7. Sleeve as to taste (half or full).

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Front:

Square lines from 0, fold at 4-0.

1-0 = one-eighth chest plus 6.5 cm (2½”).

2-0 = waist length plus 2 cm (¾”).

3-2 = 18 cm (7”) for seat line.

4-0 = full length plus 2 cm (¾”).

Square out from all these points.

5-0 = one-twelfth chest plus 1 cm (¼”), or to taste.

6-0 = one-eighth chest, or to taste. Shape neck 6-5.

7-0 = shoulder plus 1 cm (¼”).Square down from 7 to 8.

9-7=2.5 cm (1”). Join 5-9.

10-8 = nearly 2.5 cm (1”).

11-1 = one-fourth chest plus 4 cm (1½”).

Shape scye 9-10-11.

Square down from 11 to 12.

13-12 = 2 cm (¾”).

14-3 = one-fourth seat plus 4 cm (1½”).

15-4 = one-fourth seat plus 5 cm (2”).

Shape side seam 11-13-14-15.

17-11 = one-eighth chest plus 1.5 cm (½”).

Darts:

16-2 = one twelfth chest plus 1.5 cm (½”).

Take 2 cm (¾”) dart at 16, of length one-sixth chest on both the sides.

Take 2 cm (¾”) dart at 17, in the direction of bust.

Back:

Square lines from 0, fold at 4-0.

1-0 = one-eighth chest plus 6.5 cm (2½”).

2-0 = waist length.

3-2 = 18 cm (7”) for seat line.

4-0 = full length. Square out from these points.

5-0 = same as 5 to 0 of front.

6-0=2.5 to 4 cm (1 to 1½”). Shape neck 6-5.

Except 10, the proportions of points 7 to 16 are the same like front.

Join 5-9. Shape scye 9-10-11.

Take 2 cm (¾”) dart at 16.

Keep 4 to 5 cm (1½ to 2”) in turns at 4-15 and 14-15 for front and back.

Keep side opening at 15-14.

18-2 = 7.5 to 10 cm (3 to 4”).

18-6 = length of back opening.

Plain sleeve

Plain and simple sleeve is prepared without fullness, gathers or pleats at the top (i.e. shoulder) as well as bottom, which is finished with inside turning.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Square lines from 0, fold at 2-0

1-0 one-eighth chest plus 6.5 cm (2½”)

2-0 = sleeve length plus 1 cm (¼”).

3-2 = same as 1 to 0. Join 3-1.

4-1 = one-eighth chest.

5-0=2.5 cm (1”). Join 4-5.

6 is midway 4 to 5.

7-6 =  2 cm (¾”)

Shape back-side 4-7-5-0 as shown

Square up from 4 to 8.

8-4 = 5 cm (2”) for ladies and 4 cm (1½”) for girls garments.

Join 8-5. Taking 1 cm (¼”) above point 4,

Shape front-side 4-8- 9-0 as shown.

10-2 = half sleeve round plus 1.5 cm (½”).

Join and shape 4-10.

Keep 3 cm (1¼”) in turns at 10-2.

Keep 2 cm (¾”) inlays at 10-4.

 

CHUDIDAR

Chudidar is an unisex pyjama, with fullness at the top, but tightly fitted at the lower leg from knee to bottom. It is prepared with casing at the waist for inserting a cloth tape. It is worn with Khameez, Punjabi Kurta, Jodhpur coat; Sherwani, etc. It is cut on bias material to get a nice fit below knee. For this, either a bias bag  is prepared  or it is cut on plain material . As gathers are required below calf, the length 4-2 is increased at the bottom.

 

 

Measurement

  1. Full length 102 cm (40”).
  2. Seat 92 cm (36”).
  3. Knee round 35.5 cm (14”).
  4. Bottom round 30.5 cm (12”).

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Square lines from 0, fold at 0-4.

1-0 = one-fourth seat plus 7.5 cm (3”).

2-0 = full length.

3-1 = half 2 to 1 less 5 cm ( 2”)

4-2 = 7 to 12 cm (3 to 5”) or taste, for gathers.

Square out from 1, 3 and 4.

5-1 = one-fourth seat plus 5 cm (2”). Square up to 6.

7-5=5 cm (2”). Join and shape 6-7 as shown.

8-3 = half knee round.

 

 

9-4 = half bottom round.

Join and shape 7-8-9 as shown.

 

10-9 = 10 to 15 cm (4 to 6”), for bottom opening.

Keep 5 cm (2”) above 0-6 for casing and 4 cm (1½”) below 4-9, for in turns.

 

 

 

 

 

PLAIN SALWAR

This Salwar is very loose at the waist and seat and this looseness differs according to taste. Unlike Modern Salwar, there is no joint at seat in length. It requires 2 side pieces, 4 kalis  and 2 separate in turns at the bottom, with interfacing.

 

Measurement

  1. Full length 102 cms  (40”).
  2. Seat cm 92 cms (36”).
  3. Bottom round 30.5 cms  (12”)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Side piece :

Square lines from 0,fold at 1-0.

1-0 full length plus 1.5 cm (½”).

2-0 = half bottom less 2.5 cm (1 “), or one-fourth seat less 2.5 cm (1”).

3 is squared down from 2.

Kali :

Square lines from 4.

5-4 = full length plus 1.5 cm (½”).

6-4 = half seat plus 2.5 cm (1”), or to taste.

7 is squared down from 6.

7-6 = one-fourth seat plus 10 cm (4”).

8-7=5 cm (2”).

9-5=4 cm (1½”).

Join 8-9 and shape 7-9 as shown.

Keep 5 cm (2”) above 2-0 and 6-4 for casing.

3 and 4 = 2 side pieces,

5 to 8 = 4 kalis and 9 = material for in turns at bottom.

PATIYALA

In Plain Salwar  there is too much fullness at the waist and seat. But some dislike such bulging of material at the waist. To eliminate this, the length is divided into 2 parts which are joined at the seat. The upper part of waist piece (from waist to seat) is kept plain, while the lower part (from seat to the bottom) is kept as usual. Gathers are taken to the lower part while joining it to the waist piece.

Measurement

  1. Full length -102 cms (40”).
  2. Seat-92 cms (36”).
  3. Bottom round.- 30.5 cms(12”).

This garment requires 2 waist pieces; 2 side pieces, 4 kalis and 2 separate in turns at bottom, with interfacing.

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

 Waist piece :

Square lines from 0, fold at 1-0.

1-0 = one-sixth seat plus 2.5 cm (1.”).

2-0 = one-fourth seat plus 1.5 cm (½”).

3-1 same as 2 to 0. Join 3-2.

Keep 5 cm (2.”) at 2-0 for casing.

Side piece :

Fold at 5-4.

5-4 = full length less waist piece length 1-0 plus 2.5 cm (1”).

6-4 = half— bottom less 2.5 cm (1”).

7-5 = same as 6 to 4. Join 7-6.

Kali :

9-8 = same as 5 to 4

10-8 = one-third seat, or more according to looseness desired.

11 is squared down from 10.

11-10 = one-fourth seat plus 10 cm (4”) less waist piece length 1-0 plus 1.5 cm (½”) for two seams.

12-11 = 5 cm (2”).

13-9 = 4 cm (1½”). Join 13-12.

Shape 11-13 as shown.

 

 

 

SIX PIECE SAREE PETTICOAT

This petticoat is used inside a saree. It is prepared, with six pieces, which are narrow at the waist and broad at bottom. If lace or frill is to be attached at bottom, reduce the length accordingly.

A casing (nefa) is attached at the waist, for inserting a cloth, tape. The front opening should be 10 to 125 cm (4 to 5”) long. The total girth at the top is 10 to 12.5cm (4 to 5”) more than the waist measure and the bottom round is about twice the full length.

Measurement :

  1. Waist 64cm(25”)
  2. Full length 96 cm (38”)
  3. Casingwidth 4 cm(1½”)

INSTRUCTIONS FOR DRAFTING

Fold the material twice making four layers

Square lines from 0, with folds at 0-1 and 1-3.

1-0 full length less casing width plus about 5 cm (2”) for seams at the waist and inturns at the bottom.

2-0 = half waist plus 1 0 cm (4”) or to taste.

3-1 = same as 2 to 0: Join 2.3.

4-0 = one-twelfth waist plus 2 cm (3/4”).

5 is midway 2 to 4.

6-1 = same as 5 to 4. Join 4-6.

7-6 = 1.5 cm (½”). Shape 1-7.

8-6 = twice 4 to 0. Join 2-8.

9-4 and 10-2 = 1.5cm (½”) each.

Shape 9-5 and 10-5 as shown.

Cut on lines 4-6 and 8-10, to get six pieces.

 

Casing (nefa): It is cut of the following measures on unfolded cloth.

Length: 0-2 and 1-3 = waist plus 10 to 12.5 cm (4 to 5”), each.

Width: 0-1 and 2-3 = about 10 cm (4”) each.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

January 29, 2018

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