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ADFD-TREM-3,UNIT-2

SEAMS

A seam is a method of joining two or more pieces of materials together by a row of stitching. The purpose of most of these seams is purely functional and can be called as constructional seams. Seams should be as flat as possible and unseen except those that are used for Decorative purposes for garment design and line. Seams can be classified into flat seams and ridge seams. Plain Seam and flat fell seam are examples of flat seams. Ridge seams include The French seam. Seams may also be divided into conspicuous and inconspicuous seams. Inconspicuous seams when finished will not have Stitches seen on the right side of the garment, example are plain, corded And French. Conspicuous seams are those that have stitches seen on the Right side of the garment like run and fell seam, lapped seam etc

 Plain seam:  

This is the most widely used seam which is pliable and inconspicuous. It is used on all types of fabrics except on very transparent kinds and is suitable for firm fabrics that do not ravel and will not be subjected to hard and frequent laundering. This is used for side seams, under arm seams ad armhole seams. Place the two pieces of fabrics to be joined together right sides facing. Work a line of tacking stitches on the seam line and machine

Procedure: – A plain seem is the one that occurs most often. In a well-made straight seam, the stitching is exactly the same distance from the seam edge the entire length of the seam. In most cases, a plain straight stitch is used. For stretchy fabrics, however, a tiny zigzag or special machine stretch stitch may be used.

 

 Lapped seam:

This seam is commonly used for joining a gathered or unaltered section to a straight edge as in a yoke. Take the part of which is to be laid on top and turn its seam allowance to the wrong side. Place this piece on the top of the second piece, right sides facing and matching the fold to the seam line. Tack in position and machine close to the folded edge

Procedure: –

  • Stitch as you would stitch any plain seam
  • Press both seam allowances in the same direction.
  • Stitch from the right side near the seam line, this line of top stitching will hold the seam edge back in place & emphasize the seam line.
  • Trim or finish seam edges together & press them together to.

French seam:

This is a ridge seam and is used on transparent and light weight fabrics, especially on baby clothes and delicate blouses. It is a neat and durable finish as the raw edges are completely enclosed, It is a neat and durable finish as the raw edges are completely enclosed. The two pieces of materials to be joined are placed together with wrong sides facing. Work a row of stitching 1/8 inch. Press the seam and turn the work so that the right sides are together. Crease the first row of stitching so that it is directly on the edge. Tack and stitch along the seam line about 1/8 inch from the fold.

 

 Procedure: –

 The French is stitched twice, once from the right side and once from the wrong side.it is the finished width is ¼ in (6mm) or less. With wrong sides of fabric together, stitch 3/8 in (1 cm) from the edge together, trim seam allowances to 1/8 in (3mm) (1). Press seam open. Fold right sides together, with stitched line exactly on edges of fold, and press again. Stitch on the seam line, which is now ¼ in (6mm) from the fold (2). Press seam to one side.

 Flat and fell seam:

This is a flat durable seam used on men’s sports shirts, work clothes and children’s clothes and pyjamas. Places the pieces to be joined wrong sides facing and stitch on the seam line. Press both seam allowances together in the same direction and trim the under seam to 1/8 inch and the upper one to 3/8 inch. Turn under the raw edge of the wide seam allowance so as to make a smooth fold ¼ inch wide. Machine stitch close to the folded edge on the right of the garment. The right side of the seam will show two rows of stitching and wrong side will show only one row of stitching

 

Procedure: –

The flat –felled seam is very sturdy and so is often used for sports clothing and children’s wear. Since it is also decorative, and care must be taken to keep widths uniform, within a seam and from one seam to another .with wrong side of the fabric together, stitch on the seam line. Press seam open, then to one side. Trim the inner seam allowance to 1/8 in (3 mm). Press under the edges of outer seam allowance ¼ in (6 mm). Stitch this folded edge to the garment. be careful to press like seams in the same direction .a felling foot or jeans foot is available for some machines. This foot rolls the fabric under as it stitches.

 Pinked finish:

This is a quick method done with pinking shears, which is not bulky, but not a suitable finish for fabrics that ravel badly. After stitching plain seam trim off about 1/8 inch of the seam allowance using the pinking shears

Procedure: –

Pinked: Cut along edge of seam allowance with pinking shears. For best results, do not fully open shears or close all the way to the points. If fabric is crisp and lightweight, it is possible to trim two edges at once, before pressing seam open .otherwise do one edge at a time. Pinking is attractive, but will not of itself prevent fraying.

 Turned & stitching

The seam is stitched and pressed open . Then turn under¼ inch on each seam edge and top stitch close to the fold without catching the garment. This is a bulky finish and is not suitable for deeply curved Seams. This is mostly used on unlined coats and jackets where the seam Allowance is wide

Procedure: –

Turned- and – stitched turn under edge of seam allowance 1/8 in (3mm) (1/4 in [6 mm] if fabric frays easily); press stitch along edge of fold .it may be helpful, on difficult fabrics or curved edge, to place a row of stitching at the 1/8 or ¼ in (3 or 6 mm) fold line to help turn edge under. This is a neat, tailored finish for light – weight to medium weight fabric and is suitable for an unlined jacket.

Bound seam edge finish:

In this method the seam is pressed open and the bias binding attached to both the seam edges. For thin fabrics seam allowances could be pressed together and bias binding attached to each layer separately

 

Procedure: –

Bias- bound: Trim notches from seam edge ;wrap bias tape around it.stitch close to edge of top fold, catching  underneath fold in stitching .bias tape is especially good for finishing seams in an unlined jacket or coat.

 

TUCKS

A tuck is a fold of fabric stitched in place by running stitch or machine stitch on the right side of the garment as a means of – shaping the garment to the body, for holding in fullness or add decorative effect at shoulders, waistlines, yokes, pockets or cuff of sleeves etc.  The tucks that are partly stitched help in shaping the garments.  These are also used in children’s garments to hold the allowance for growth.  Tucks add body to thin fabrics and textural interest to plain fabrics. Tucks can be used in groups or clusters and in graduated width. When calculating the amount of material that is needed, each tuck calls for an allowance equal to twice its finished width. So for making a group of 4 tucks of 1/8 inch finished width, allow 4 x (1/ 8 x 2) = 1 inch extra material.      To stitch each tuck fold along middle so that stitching lines coincide. Then stitch along the markings. Cut the garment section only after completing the stitching of the tucks. There are several methods of tucking:

Pin tucks:-

   These are tiny dainty tucks used on baby clothes and fine blouses. To stitch each tuck fold, along the middle of the markings. Tack or machine baste about 1/8 inch wide from the fold

  1. Crossed tucks:-

    When rows of tucks are stitched along the fabric in both horizontal and vertical directions, the decoration is called cross tucking. First stitch the vertical tucks and press them to one side. Then stitch the horizontal tucks

Shell or scalloped tucks:-

This is a very a decorative tuck made by hand or machine. Stitch the tuck using small running stitches. As you come to each dot, take two overcast stitches through the dot and pull tight, before proceeding further with the running stitches

 

PLEATS

Pleats are folds of fabric that provide fullness in some parts of a garment.  They can be placed single or in a series and can be pressed flat or left undressed, according to the style of the garment. Pressed pleats give a smooth, slimming line to a garment, whereas, undressed pleats provide a softer and fuller shape. Pleats are introduced usually at the waist line of skirts and dresses, to provide fullness evenly all around. The preparation of pleats is similar to that of tucks, the main difference being that pleats are seldom stitched all the way down. Sometimes they are stitched part way down the garment for flatness. Each pleat require extra material of twice the width of the finished pleat. If pleats are to touch each other all round the garment, the amount of material needed is three times the finished width. There are different types of pleats that can be used in garment construction.  Among more commonly used are.

 Knife pleats:-

They are usually about 1/2 inch to 1 inch wide and are turned towards the same direction. The direction may be reversed at center back or centre front of the garment. Make all the pleats in the same direction. Press them. Pleats can be top stitched in place from waist to hip to produce the slender effect. The main function of a knife pleat in a tailored garment is to provide fullness at the bottom of the garment.

Knife pleats Garment

                  

 Box pleats:-

Two knife pleats turned away from each other (one to the left and one to the right) form a box pleat.  These are used quite often for uniforms

BOX PLEATS GARMENT

                                                

  1. Inverted pleat:

It is the opposite of a box. It is made up of two knife pleats turned towards each other so that the folds meet in the middle on the right side of the garment. It is usually designed at centre front or centre back and looks like two knife pleats facing away from each other on the under side

 Inverted pleat Garments

 

 

 

GATHERS

Gathering is an effective and decorative way of distributing fullness over a given area. Gathers are graceful folds of fabric that provide fullness, suggesting a soft look, which can be made using machine or hand stitches. These are formed by drawing the fabric together on a line of stitching and may be used to control the fullness at round waist, yoke lines, waist lines, neck lines and upper and lower edge of sleeves. Gathering is done by different methods, such as:

 

 

 

January 10, 2018

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