FD_ACA0408 Fashion in 19th & 20th century

FASHION IN 19TH & 20TH CENTURY

1840’s Fashion characterized by

1. Low and sloping shoulders.
2. A low pointed waist.
3. Bell-shaped skirts that grew increasingly voluminous throughout the decade.
4. Evening dresses were often off the shoulder.
5. Hair was parted in the center with ringlets at the side of the head, or styled with loops around the ears and pulled into a bun at the back of the head.
6. Paisley or crochet shawls were fashionable accessories.
7. Linen caps with lace frills for indoor wear, and large bonnets for outdoors.
8. Capes with large collars were fashionable.
9. Very fashionable men sported low
10. Tightly cinched waists, with rounded chests and flared frock-coats that gave them a rather hour-glass figure
11. They wore tight trousers and waistcoats
12. High upstanding collars and neckties tied around them.
13. Hair was worn quite long, but swept to the sides.
14. Moustaches and side-burns were popular.

 

1850’s Fashion Characterized  by

1. Women’s skirts were domed and bell-shaped
2. Supported by crinoline petticoats.
3. They often featured deep flounces or tiers.
4. Long bloomers and pantaloons trimmed with lace were popular.
5. Tiered cape-jackets were fashionable, as were paisley patterned shawls.
6. Deep bonnets were worn
7. Hair was swept into buns or side coils from a center parting.
8. Men wore matching coats, waistcoats and trousers
9. Hairstyles characterized by large mutton-chop side-burns and mustaches
10. Shirts had high upstanding collars
11. Neck with large bow-ties.
12. Though a new style called the sack coat (a thigh-length, loosely fitted jacket) became popular.
13. The bowler hat was invented around 1850, but was generally seen as a working class hat, while top-hats were favored by the upper classes.

 

1860’s Fashion Characterized by

1. women’s dress featured tight bodices with high necks and buttoned fronts.
2. White lace was popular for collars and cuffs, as were low sloping shoulders that flared out into wide sleeves
3. The skirt continued to be full and bell-shaped until around 1865 when it began to lose its volume at the front and move its emphasis towards the back.
4. Ornaments for evening wear included floral wreaths, ostrich feathers, pomegranate flowers, wheatears and butterflies.
5. Men’s coats and jackets to be single-breasted and semi-fitted, extending to the mid-thigh.
6. Waistcoats were often collar less and trousers were occasionally cut from a narrow check cloth.
7.  High, starched collars were worn with cravats and neck-ties.
8. Hair was parted from the centre and moderately waved.
9. A particular hairstyle, known as ‘Dundreary whiskers’ or ‘Piccadilly weepers’, was long pendant side-whiskers worn with a full beard and drooping moustache.

 

1870’s Fashion Characterized  by

1. Women’s fashion placed an emphasis on the back of the skirt, with long trains and fabric draped up into bustles with an abundance of flounces and ruching.
2. The waist was lower in the 1870’s than the 1860’s, with an elongated and tight bodice and a flat fronted skirt.
3. Low, square necklines were fashionable.
4. Hair was dressed high at the back with complicated twists and rolls, falling to the shoulders, adorned with ribbons, bands and decorative combs.
5. Hats were very small and tilted forward to the forehead. Later in the decade wider brimmed ‘picture hats’ were also worn, though still tilted forwards.
6. Coats and jackets were semi-fitted and thigh-length.
7. Both jackets and waistcoats were buttoned high on the chest
8. Shirt collars were stiff and upstanding, with the tips turned down into wings.
9. Hair was often worn parted in the center and most forms of facial hair were acceptable, though being clean shaven was rare.

1900’s Fashion characterized by

S-CURVE SILHOUETTE

1. The silhouette slimmed and elongated by a considerable amount since 1830s.
2. Low chest and curvy hips.
3. Removed pressure from the abdomen.
4. Necklines were supported by very high boned collars.

 

Gibson girl look

1. The Gibson girl was the creation of American artist Charles Dana Gibson (1867– 1944).
2. The look included High collars, curls swept up in a bun, Shirtwaist blouses

 

RISE OF HAUTE COUTURE

• Haute– High, Couture- Dressmaking.
• It refers to the creation of exclusive custom-fitted clothing.

Haute couture is fashion that is constructed by hand from start to finish, made from high quality, expensive, often unusual fabric and sewn with extreme attention to detail and finished by the most experienced and capable seamstresses, often using time-consuming, hand-executed techniques.

1910’s Fashion characterized by

Paul Poiret

1. Paul Poiret (1879-1944) was an influential French fashion designer.
2. He led a fashion renaissance that introduced free-flowing dresses
3. Replaced tight corsets with brassieres.
4. This was an important step in liberating women from the confines of a metal or bone cage that caused them to disfigure their bodies.

 

ORIENTALISM

1. Turbans and vivid colors and geishas in exotic kimono.
2. Simple felt hats, turbans, and clouds of tulle replaced the styles of headgear popular in the 1900s.
3. His lampshade tunic and turbans were all in vibrant glowing shimmering colors, with beaded embellishment.

 

HOBBLE SKIRT

1. A Hobble skirt was a skirt with a narrow hem.
2. It was a short-lived fashion trend
3. A knee-long corset was also used to achieve this effect.

1920’s Fashion characterized by

FLAPPER DRESS

1. A flapper was a young woman of the 1920’s.
2. The most memorable fashion trend of the “Roaring ’20s” was undoubtedly “the flapper” look.
3. The flapper dress was functional and flattened the bust line rather than accentuating it.
4. Their appearance included –Short-bobbed hair styles,fancy hats, makeup,long and flat but often gaudy dresses.

 

TUBULAR DRESSES

In the post-war period, the tubular dresses of the teens had evolved into a similar silhouette that now sported shorter skirts with pleats, gathers or slits to allow motion and easier movements.

 

BOYISH FIGURE

1. For the first time in centuries, women’s legs were seen with hemlines rising to the knee and dresses becoming more fitted and most importantly, the confining corset was discarded.
2. A more masculine look became popular, short hairstyles such as the bob cut.
3. The fashion was bohemian and forthcoming for its age.

 

TWEED

1. Tweed is a rough, unfinished woolen fabric, of a soft, open, flexible texture, but more closely woven.
2. It is made in either plain or twill weave
3.  a check or herringbone pattern.

1930’s Fashion characterized by

ALOHA SHIRT

1. The Aloha shirt, commonly referred to as a Hawaiian shirt, is a style of men’s dress shirt originating in Hawaii.
2. The dress shirts are printed, mostly short-sleeved, and collared.

 

ZOOT SUIT

Azoot suit is a men’s suit with high-waist, wide-legged, tight cuffed, pegged trousers , and a long coat with wide lapels and wide padded shoulders.

 

BOWL CUT

1. A bowl cut , is a simple and plain short haircut where the hair is cut with a straight fringe on the front and the rest of the hair is the same.
2. Length all the way around or is cut short on the sides and back.

 

FEDORA

1. A fedora is a hat that is typically creased lengthwise down the crown and “pinched” near the front on both sides.
2. The typical crown height is 4.5 inches (11 cm).

 

DOUBLE BREASTED SUITS

1. The term double-breasted refers to a coat or jacket.
2. Wide, overlapping front flaps
3. two parallel columns of buttons or snaps.

1940’s Fashion characterized by

SPAGHETTI  STRAP

A spaghetti strap (also called noodle strap) is a very thin shoulder strap used in clothing, such as camisoles.

 

HARLEQUIN  PRINT

• Harlequin printis a women’s fashion design which was introduced by designer Adele Simpson in 1944, she presented the harlequin print in a bold diamond design

 

KITTY  FOYLE (dress)

1. A Kitty Foyle is a dress style of the 1940s characterized by a dark fabric and contrasting light collar and cuffs, typically of navy blue and white.
2. The shape of the dress is a shirtwaist with short or elbow-length sleeves.

 

PENCIL SKIRT

A pencil skirt is a slim-fitting skirt with a straight, narrow cut. Generally the hem falls to, or just below, the knee and is tailored for a close fit.

 

WORLD WAR II

1. ZAZOU– The Zazous were a subculture in France during Word War II. They were young people expressing their individuality by wearing big or garish clothing and dancing wildly to swing jazz and bebop.
2. M1 HELMET-The M1 helmetis a combat helmet that was used by the United States military from World War II until 1985.

1950’s Fashion characterized by

TEDDY BOY

Teddy Boy is a British subculture typified by young men wearing clothes that were partly inspired by the styles worn by dandies in the Edwardian period.

 

 

POODLE SKIRT

A poodle skirt is a wide swing felt skirt of a solid bright bold color (often pink and powder blue) displaying a design appliqued or transferred to the fabric.

1960’s Fashion characterized by

KENNEDY ERA

1. The “Jackie look” included
2. Clean suits
3. A-line dresses
4. Famous pillbox hats
5. Triple strand pearl necklace
6. over-sized buttons.

 

AUDREY HEPBURN LOOK

1. Audrey Hepburn is not only one of the 1960’s fashion icons but is also a well-renowned actress.
2. Audrey is still looked up as one of the best 1960’s fashion icons and a notable philanthropist.
3.  The look has been described as “ultra-feminine” and “Parisian”.
4. This little black dress attained iconic fame and status that it became an integral part of a woman’s wardrobe.

 

PVC CLOTHING

PVC clothing , is shiny clothing made of the plastic polyvinyl chloride (PVC)

 

MINI SKIRTS, JEANS & HOT PANTS

A miniskirt is a skirt with a hemline well above the knees, generally halfway up the thighs – normally no longer than 10 cm (4 in) below the buttocks.

 

JEANS

1. Jeans became more acceptable
2. Jeans are trousers often made from denim or dungaree cloth.
3. Often the term “jeans” refers to a particular style of pants, called “blue jeans“
4. Invented by Jacob Davis and Levi Strauss in 1873.

 

HOT PANTS

1. Hot pants became a British fashion icon.
2. Hot Pants are a garment worn by both men and women
3. Sometimes extending down to knee but not covering the entire length of the leg.

 

MOD LOOK

1. Mods were very self-conscious and critical young adults.
2. The term mod derives from modernist, a term used in the 1950s to describe modern jazz musicians.
3. Male mods- inspired from the music groups like the Beatles.

1970’s Fashion characterized by

HIPPIE LOOK

1. Hippie clothing was made in extremely bright colors
2. Bell sleeves and bottoms
3. In the early 1970s, there was a trend for unisex men’s and women’s matching outfits.

 

DISCO STYLE

1. Fancy clothes made from man-made materials
2. Stylish three-piece with neckties and shirts
3. Disco clothes included tube tops, sequined halter neck shirts, blazers, miniskirts, spandex shorts, loose pants, form-fitting spandex pants, maxi skirts and dresses with long thigh slits, jersey wrap dresses, ball gowns, and evening gowns.

1980’s Fashion characterized by

ACTIVE WEAR

1. Sports clothing as everyday apparel
2. Tracksuits, jumpsuits, etc.
3. The accessories included Sneakers  & tennis headbands.

 

POWER DRESSING

1. shoulder pads.
2. Power suits.

1990’s Fashion characterized by

Doc Martens Boots

The boots and shoes became popular in the 1990s as grunge fashion arose.

 

PLATFORM SHOES

Shoes, boots, or sandals with thick soles.

The trend re-established itself in the late 1990’s and early 2000’s with a much higher threshold of what was considered outrageous.