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FD_DRA00905_CIRCULAR SKIRT

This units explores on how to drape a circular skirt and achieve flares in the bias.
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CIRCULAR SKIRT 

 The circular skirt has a fitted waist seam with an exaggerated circular curve in the waistline. When this waistline is sewn into a straight waistband, multiple flares of fullness Falls into the hemline, there by creating a multiple flared skirts silhouette. The lower edge may have any amount of sweep desired, depending on the amount of fullness draped into the waist. it may also be designed in any length. for example of short circular skirt may be used to design a skating or ballet costume, whereas a longer softer design maybe more suitable for an evening dress.
 

Circular Skirt Preparing the Fabric

Measure the length along the straight of grain. Measure for the front and back skirt 5 inch above the waist it to the desired length of the design
Measure the width at least 36 inch along the crossgrain measure the same measurement as the desired length for the front and back skirt this make a perfect square.
Draw grainlines for the centre front and Centre back  skirt 1 inch from the torn edge and press under.
Mark the Centre front or waist position measure down 5 inch from the top edge of the fabric on the grain line draw a waistline mark.
Draw the front and back cross grain.
a.  on the front fabric piece, measure down 7 inch from the waistline mark. Draw a perfect front crossgrain at this hip level.
b. On the back fabric piece, measure down 12 inch on the grainline from the top edge of the fabric.  Draw a perfect back crossgrain at this hip level.
 
  • Pin the centre from grainline fold of the fabric at the centre front position of the dress form.
  • Align the waistline mark on the fabric to the centre front waistline position of the dress form.
  • Drape the crossgrain to the princess seam. following the hip level of the dress form, smooth and draped the Crossgrain to the princess seam anchor a pin at this position.
  • Drape the front waistline to the princes’s seam.
          a. Clip the fabric from the top edge down to the waistline.
          b. smooth and drape the fabric at the waistline to the princes’s seam.
          c. Anchor a pin on the Waistline at the princes’s seam.
 
  • Drape the first skirt flare. pivot the fabric downwards from the Waistline at the princes’s area forming a nice flowing flare.
 
  • Clip, pivot, pin and drape the second flare about 1 inch from the first flare, at the waistline smooth the fabric downward and towards the side seam.
  • Continue to clip, pivot, and pin the waistline where each flare is desired.
  • Mark key areas.
         a. Waist line
         b.  Side seam
         c.  Hem; follow the bottom of the dress form cage.
True up the front drape.
Remove the fabric drape from the dress form. True up the front drape, add Seam allowances, and trim the excess fabric.
Place the front skirt drape on top of the prepared fabric for the back drape.
a.  Match the cross grain of the front and back skirt.  At the same time, place the center fold grainline parallel, allow for the difference between the back waist line amount and the front waistline amount.
b. Draw the skirt back stitch lines. Follow the same marking as the skirt front (temporary waistline, dude seam, and hem)
 
Check the fit and balance of the circular skirt. Pin the fabric pieces together at the front and back on the dress form. Adjust the back Waistline until the skirt hangs properly and the side seam are in alignment with the side seams on the dress form pin Centre front and Centre back waist.
 

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