PLACKETS

The continuous bound plackets, bound and faced plackets and zipper plackets are examples of inconspicuous plackets.

 Continuous bound placket:

This is also called one-piece placket and may be made in a seam or slash. It is suitable for children’s dresses, undergarments like saree petticoat, and for sleeve openings where a cuff or band is used. Do not use this placket on curved seams and on bulky fabrics

   Kurta plackets:

This is a simple neck finish used on infants and children’s clothes. To make this, slash the opening down from the neck at canter front or canter back and apply bias binding to the openings.

The under lap and overlap sides of the garment should extend beyond the centre front line by 1 ½ times the finished width of the pleat plus ¾ inch.  To finish the under lap,  mark a fold ¾ inch beyond the centre front line, make the fold to the wrong side and tack in position. When the garment is finished, the fasteners will hold this fold in position

 Kurta plackets Garment

NECKLINES

Introduction

Neckline is an outline of bodice around the neck.  It can be shaped in different ways and styles to get a decorative effect, particularly for ladies garments.  Round, square, V-neckline, U-neckline etc. are the most commonly used basic shapes of plain neckline

DIFFERENT METHODS OF FINISHING NECKLINES

A neckline may be finished with a facing, binding or a collar. The type of finish chosen will depend on the design of a garment, the fabric and in some cases even personal preference.  Necklines are generally curved and hence tend to stretch during handling.  It is therefore important to note that before garment construction, a row of stay stitching is done at a distance of 0.5 cm from the edge of the neckline, so that it will not stretch.

A straight piece of material attached to a curve will look bulky and untidy. The elasticity of bias permits it to stretch or contract and thus take the shape of any curved edge giving it a flat smooth finish. Bias strips can be applied as facings and bindings.

Bias and its Uses

True bias falls on a diagonal line at 450 to the lengthwise and crosswise grains. It has the maximum elasticity or in other words it stretches more than any other direction on cloth

Cutting   bias

Strips fold the fabric diagonally so that the lengthwise threads of the folded part fall parallel to the crosswise threads on the rest of the material. Using a gauge or ruler, measure from the fold to desired width of bias strip and draw parallel lines. Cut strips along the marked lines and trim off ends along warp threads

Joining bias strips:

Place the two strips to be joined right sides facing and the edges of the outright angles to each other. Shift the top strip ¼ inch beyond the other so that the sharp points at the ends of the strips project on either side. Stitch a ¼ inch seam joining the points where the sides of the two strips intersect. Press the seam open and trim the seam projections showing on right side

FACINGS:

These are used to provide a neat finish to the raw edges in a garment and to support the shape of necklines, armholes, collars, etc. When the edge to be faced is a straight line, the facing may be cut in one piece with the garment section. Usually facings are applied separately. There are two main types of applied facings – bias facing and shaped facing.

Shaped facing can be of any width, but bias facing should not be more than ½ inch wide.  Facings are usually turned to the inside of the garment and will not show when the garment is worn. Sometimes facings are turned to the outside of the garment for decorative effect.

GARMENT MAKING

1. Method of applying bias facing:

Stay stitch edge of garment to be faced. Tack bias strip to edge of garment, right sides facing beginning at a seam. For inward corners to be faced, the bias must be eased and for outward curves it must be stretched. (Easing means holding bias strip slightly loose at the seam line). Stitch bias to the edge of the garment in line with the bias on top. Trim the seam to ¼ inch, clip at curves, grade bulky seams and ends coinciding. Turn the strip to wrong side, under stitch the facing to the seam. Making sure that the facing is not visible from the right side of the garment. Now hem or slip stitch the facing to the garment. When finished, the bias facing should be about 3/8 inch wide

‘V’ NECK FACING

SQUARE NECK FACING